On top of Mt Doom

Back in Modor, at the Tongariro NP

A few weeks ago, at the end of november, we’ve been hiking on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. Famous hiking trail, which is among the top 10 1 day trek in the world ! We loved it so much that we promised ourself to get back on that track one more time.
But this time, instead of climbing on Mt Tongariro summit at 1967m, the plan is to climb on Mt Ngauhuroe, a 2291m high active volcano. Natural scenery used as the Mordor in the Lord of the Rings movies, we couldn’t climb on it last time because of the snow.

So, here we are, ready to go on a early sunny morning. It’s 8am, the sun newly risen illuminate the Tongariro plain with its morning rays, gently warming up the vegetal world that is emerging from its sleep. On the horizon line, we can see Mt Taranaki which is looking after the west coast of the north island from the top of its 2518m. Its snowy summit, that is possible to climb on (but it will be for another day), is the only white spot in the wide azur blue sky. Indeed, no clouds dare show up this morning !

As a warm up, we walk again through that large valley, in which some clumps of Tussacks, yellow looking tall and dry grass, mix with heather, realising this delicious smell of a mountain that awakens We progress alongside a charming little stream flowing over rocks, which are more and more numerous and finnaly erase every trace of vegetation.
We allow ourselves a little detour to Soda Springs, the stream entry point in the valley by a short waterfall. Then we turn back, making a U-turn, find ourselves face to face with the imposing volcano.

On Mount Ngauruhoe screen, view over all the Tongariro — On Mount Ngauruhoe scree, view over all the Tongariro

Well, we’re back at the feet of Mt Doom ! And this time, no more snow ! The volcanic landscape, parched and rocky, offers the real setting of Mordor, with black and ocher colors. We walk back onto the track, and we take the long and serpentine stairs that leads, through blocks of solid lava, to the first volcanic plateau. A last, after 2 hours, we’re at the crossroads, indicating the start of the volcano climbing, and the end of the marked track.
A brief snack in the stomach, we look up at the scree and tackle the summit. We soon realise that the difficulty will be a lot more hardcore that climbing on Mt Tongariro and the « classic » track, that we used last time. The small volcanic rocks are rolling under our shoes which are sinking into the sick layer pebbles, earth and dust. As we need to provide a powerful physical effort to continue the climb, our breath is short and our we’re breathing more and more stronger. It’s bloody hard !!!

On top of Mt Ngauruhoe, Mt Doom

Finally, after nearly to hours climbing to reach the summit, we’re on the edge of the crater. The beauty of the place is one more time breathtaking ! The crater is as tapered than the volcano itself. It cuts deep into the bowels of the Earth as a giant funnel. A few snowdrift are still present, adding a white touch in this infernal scene.
We ate another snack, while we meet 2 other couples with whom we share a moment of well deserved rest. Alejandro, a mexican chef cook and Marie a french anthropologist living in Madagascar and Africa, goes down quickly.

Mount Ngauruhoe's crater. — Mount Ngauruhoe’s crater.

Matt and Juju, also french, will spent the rest of the day with us. So we start by walking all around the crater, discovering that Matt is a real copy of Quentin(but with beard !!). It’s incredible how the guys’s personality are alike. But we also discover an exceptional panorama over Mt Ruapehu, still covered by snow and all the valley that lays at its base.
At the end of the crater tour, we’ll find ourselves in front of the steepy slope that we climbed up a few hours ago. Do we really have to come down that way ? Yeah… Well, let’s go ! The pebbles still roll under our feet, we lost balance at every step. We start counting the falls. Matt : 3. Quentin : 2. Mariette : 0, wait… Ha ! Nah ! She just get her first one ! The falls are in fact so numerous that we finally stop counting. Large stones are carried away by our mouvements and roll down the slope accompanied by our shouts to warn other hickers bellow : « ROOOCK !!! ».
The Quentin tries a new technic : Shuss ! Heels dud into the rocks, he start running and is carried away by the slope. 10mn and 4 falls later he’s at the base of the volcano !

Le Mont Ruapehu, view from the crater of Mount Ngauruhoe

Then we decide to continue untill the Emeral Lakes, a little bit further on the track, before turning back to the car. We walk again in the sublime scenery that we crossed a few weeks ago feets in the snow. But this time it’s all dry and arid. Totaly different ambiance, but still as majestic ! And in a quick instants it’s the end of the afternoon, and we realised that we’re alone on the track, lost in the heart of those mountains. Where a few hours ago hundreds of tourists, came by buses, were hiking on this trek. Moment of serenity. Incredible experience that is solitude in altidute.

the fabulous Emerald Lakes, in the middle of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing

It’s totaly flushed by the 10 hours of hiking, and the most difficult climb we’ve ever done that we drive back to Taupo, one more time our soul full of an incredible happiness !

Cheers

Tintin & Riette