From Nelson, after visiting the Marlborough Sounds, we start hitchhiking again alongside the main road. We shouldn’t have had any problem to get a lift there, considering the heavy traffic. But, oddly enough, we had to wait for a very long time… until a kind lady stops to tell us we are not standing in the right place! Indeed, yellow lines along the sidewalk indicate that no car is allowed to stop there… Hum! Eventually, she brings us out of town where it will be easier for us to get a ride. From there, we manage to bounce forward, getting short rides after short rides, and finally reach Motueka, the last city before the beginning of the track at Marahau. In the CBD, we find again by chance Léa and Sam, a french couple we met in Wellington, and convince them to come with us for 4 days of adventure along the wonderful Abel Tasman Bay. We hop at the back of their van and hurry to Marahau by one of the worse roads of New Zealand, which turns and bumps nearly make us sick!
The Abel Tasman Coast Track
Our four days walk will be very relax: we planned to walk an average of 3-4 hours a day and spend the rest of our time enjoying the natural wonders of the Abel Tasman marine reserve. We leave Marahau mid-afternoon and start our way on the Great Walk through a long impressive marsh, remembering us of our dear Brittany. We walk four hours in total along the coast and its stunning turquoise waters. The weather gets better and better, letting the sun shines on this beautiful paradise.
We stop for the night at Watering Cove, a small precious white-sanded jewel-bay, while the sky turns on beautiful pastel colours. Next thing we know, it’s covered with brilliant stars, the Milky Way glowing softly in the darkness.
Waking up listening to the sound of the waves is an incredible experience that everybody should try once. This morning this magical moment was somewhat tempered by the discovery of an intruder in our tent: a mouse nibbled at our fly net, opening a big hole in it!! Not only that but it also crapped everywhere! Mariette finds the guilty rodent sleeping peacefully at the bottom of her backpack. Panicked, the mouse starts jumping crazily everywhere before escaping by the open door.
We walked five hours today (our biggest day!), through amazing rain forests, marshes, crystal-clear rivers and stunning white beaches, each more incredible than the others. The hilly field offered us spectacular views on the ocean and its unlimited variations of the blue colour. Lea the botanist enthused over the many varieties of ferns. Sam was singing stupid or old fashion songs and spends his time fooling around, which doesn’t keep him from leading very serious conversations from time to time! We talked together nonstop all the way like real chatterboxes. No time to get bored!
We spend our second night along the beautiful Bark Bay, on a gigantic campground holding a hundred tent sites! We manage to find a quiet spot under the pines, and jump in the blue waters that were calling us all day long!
We take the last two days really easy, walking only two hours each. We use our free time to swim, nap on the deserted beaches or play in the sand like three years old kids. Swimming in those turquoise waters was decidedly delicious. As for the sunbathing part… It was at first amazing: white soft sand, beautiful sun… But it rapidly turned to hell when we became the targeted meal of vicious clouds of sand flies!! Despite the 30°C, we finally had to get fully dressed again to escape the harassment of those bloodthirsty gnats!
We spend our third night in Tonga Quarry, where you can access to fantastic natural arches at low tide. It was perfect to keep us busy all evening!
Returning by Water Taxi
The next morning, we arrive at Awaroa that marks the end of our trip. We have to wait a few more hours before being picked up by Marahau Water Taxis. The powerful little boat travels at full speed along the coast, surfing on the waves, offering us a totally different view on all the gorgeous bays and beaches of the Abel Tasman we just walked through those last few days. In two hours, we sails all the 37,5km back to Marahau!
Back there, starving after all those tuna cans on crackers we had to eat the last four days, we enjoy a good portion of wedges and a yummy crafted beer from Sprig and Fern tavern!
On the Abel Tasman :
- When you walk near Watering Cove, go down to the beach for a little rest in an amazing bay ! Perfect spot for a picnic or a camping night !
- Tonga Quarry is probably the most beautiful beach on the track ! You should stop there for a swim, a picnic or a camping night on the sand ! At low tide, you can walk on the rocks to a couple of wonderful natural arches. Don’t miss that !
Having a shower after the Great Walk :
- In Kaiteriteri, inside the public toilets in front of the beach, you’ll find a cold shower open to public. Yeah it’s cold, and there is no cabins, but it’s free !
Hitchhinking from Nelson to Abel Tasman :
- From Nelson, walk pass the BP gas station on SH6 until there is no more yellow stripes along the pedestrian way. From there you’ll have no trouble to get a lift a leat to Richmond, or maybe to Motueka. If you’re droped in Richmond, try to hitchhike again just after the roundabout and before the bridge. From Motueka, stay just at the end of the town, most of the cars driving that way goes to Marahau.
Coming back in Marahau with the Water Taxis :
- Marahau Water Taxis propose regulars services of water taxi, in both directions, between Marahau and Totaranui. You can also drop some stuf in a safe place at the shop, and park your car for free during the trek.
- Price : 35-47$/person
Enjoying a good beer after your trek :
- In Marahau, in the same building than Marahau Water Taxis, you can enjoy a wonderful locally brewed beer and some wonderful wedges in the Sprig & Fern Tavern !
Another Sprig & Fern Tavern is in Motueka, if you don’t have time to drink a beer in Marahau, don’t miss it in Motueka !
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