In Cape Palliser

We are now approaching Wellington. On the road from Whanganui, we took the (hard) decision to sell our dear car, Léonie. Hitchhiking is calling us. It seems to be the best solution, as far as we can see, to save our budget and meet more locals. But before arriving in the capital, we allow us one last side trip with our four-wheeled companion. We turn off the main roads to drive to a remote place : Cape Palliser.

The Pinnacles, Path of the Deads

The more we drive in the direction of Cape Palliser, the more the road become narrow and bumpy (New Zealand roads are definitively in very bad conditions). Weather is quite bad. Low clouds, mist, wind… Like a November day in France. We stop for a 2 hours long walk at the Pinnacles, strange rocky needle shapes, several meters high, forming some narrow paths where we can wander in a mysterious atmosphere. That place has been used as a natural décor for “The Path of the Deads” in the 3^rd Lord of the Rings movie. So the sad weather is perfect, we feel like we were part of the Fellowship of the Ring !

Cape Palliser

It’s now time to reach this famous cape, with its huge red and white lighthouse sitting there like a king at the end of the end. Looking over the fantastic landscape of the rocky peninsula, shaped by the winds and beaten by waves, with arid yellowish hills and cliffs. A panorama like the end of the world…. The rare inhabitants of the area share the view with a happy sea lions colony, which are not troubled one minute by the tourists who come on their private beach. Fancy, the young females pose like cinema starlets in front of our lenses… Hilarious! Some of the seals, more massive (the males we supposed) inflate their chest with a superior look. Others, obviously exhausted by their day, vaguely open one eye, yawn, scratch their bottom, and fall asleep straight away on sharp rocks as if it was a soft feather stuffed pillow…

We could stay here for hours, but night will fall soon, and an enormous dark grey threatening cloud is coming our way. So we hurry up to the lighthouse, and climb the long stairs up the hill to have a view over this incredible landscape.
We spent the night in Ngawi, a tiny village with a black sand beach full of old rusty bulldozers with a Wall-E look, used to lift fishing boats up and down into the ocean. We enjoy with them an excellent evening in front of the sea with a nice sunset before spending the night with the sound of the surf. Beautiful isn’t it ?

See you soon

Tintin & Riette

Tips :

Free campground in Cape Palliser :

• In Ngawi, just after the beach with the fishing boats and the bulldozers you can camp on the piece of grass for free (donations appreciated). Toilets available on the other side of the road.