Coromandel, a piece of paradise 2h from Auckland

Our seasonal working contract in Taupo will end soon. After 2 and a half months working here, we start to have itchy feet again ! We already climbed the 3 summits in Tongariro National Park (Mt Tongariro still covered in snow during november, Mt Ngauruhoe in the begining of january, and Mt Ruapehu a few days ago). To change a little bit from volcanos, and despite a pessimist forecast, we enjoy 3 days off to travel in the Coromandel peninsula. Two hours north of Taupo and 1,5 hour from Auckland, the peninsula goes for 85km north/south, and 40km at its wider part, and is reputated for its splendid coastal landscapes. But we’ll soon discover that they are not the only attractive points of this little paradise ! It rained cats and dogs all the drive up to the peninsula. Quentin start to be grumpy… It’s under heavy dark clouds that our dear Léonie bravely embarks on the roads of the peninsula. It climbs hard, and bends dangerously, with portions of gravel road that stir the entire car. But fortunately, with her four wheel drive, Léonie fears nothing!

East coast of Coromandel, to Cathedral Cove

Our first destination: Hot Water Beach. We drive up the peninsula along the east coast, through charming little villages and bays, and stop to take a few pictures of the famous Pinnacles lost in the clouds. At first we intended to climb up there but, considering the whimsical forecast, we finally drop the idea.

We finally reach reach Hot Water Beach. At low tide, a unique phenomenon occurs : due to the geothermal activity of the area, hot waters come up from down-deep. The temperature can reach 60°C. A army of enthusiastic onlookers, shovel on the shoulder,  tumble all together in a joyful mess trying to dig their own natural heated swimming pool with a view on the ocean. Extra! Except that, of course, having pushed the notion of disorganization at the level of conceptual art, when we reach the beach the tide is HIGH! Yet we’ve checked the tide schedule before leaving Taupo… The advantage, however, is that we have the beach – which is really pretty by the way – all for ourselves! A sea bath is mandatory! The water is so good that we don’t regret to be late one bit. We still try to dig a hole in the sand (one never knows) but the water coming up is not even warm.

We take the road again to go to Cathedral Cove nearby, a natural arch carved in the cliff forming a nave worthy of a great abbey. To access it, we walk down a 40mn path along the coast line and  clearwater bays. We also have to share with you an important element that none of our pictures can describe : the peninsula smells divinely good! A mix of floral and vegetal fragrance, spices and iodine, fills the air with a heady fragrance that could drive crazy Chanel’s perfumers. We stay at Cathedral Cove a long moment, to capture this New Zealand iconic place as best as we can, then walk back to start looking for a place to camp overnight.

We spotted a cheap little campsite at Otama Beach, lost in the middle of… Nothing ! On the way, we park Léonie next to a little restaurant in a shack on the sea front. We enjoy 2 woodfire pizzas (yam!) while a bunch of hippies and unbridled fifties danse listening to the music played by a live folk/country band. When we leave late after dark! A few km later on a bendy dirt road, we find our campground and park our car on the fresh grass. Everybody is asleep. Well, we’ll have to pay on the morning.

On the morning, we decide to explore around. What’s better than stopping in a mysterious place at dark and discover it the next day under the smooth morning light ? And this morning, what a sight! Two hundred meters from the campground, on the other site of the dune, is the most beautiful beach we’ve seen in all Coromandel! To top it all, today the sun makes a snub to the weather forecast, and comes out all shiny from its cloudy hinding. Instantly, water turn from a metalic grey to a pure turquoise. It’s so pretty that our eyes don’t know where to settle… Here on the white foam of the waves, a little bit further, on the jagged cliffs or there behind, on the green hills… ?

On the road 309, meeting the kauri

Back in the car, we must cross the peninsula to reach the west coast. We don’t want to take the highway, and prefer to cut by the forest. To do this we take the dirt road 309, that drives through mountains directly to Coromandel town. What a good idea! The road is a real treasure! Dark blue morningglories cover whole shrubs, and orange flowers invade the shoulders of the road. The road jumps over a lot of streams, everyone more beautiful than the previous one, with bouquets of red flowers growing on the banks. Vegetation is dense, regrouping all kinds of trees, pines, date trees, silverferns, and the famous kauri.

Kauri are impressive mastodonts overlooking the entire canopy, that can live up to 4000 years! In this forest, the eldest one is 600 years old. It’s not new, we love trees. So we stop at Kauri grove to take a closer look at them. Unfortunately, they are victims of a bacteria that kills them all, one after an other. At the beginning of the track, to avoid all contamination and spread, we have to pass through the shoes cleaning station! We rub our muddy shoes with a mat provided for this purpose, then spray them with a special desinfecting gun. A-ha! Bye bye little bacteria!
After presenting our respects to the old giants, we visit Waiau Falls, a beautifull waterfall lost in lush vegetation. A few more km and we arrive on the west coast. We drive through the charming Coromandel village, and start heading north!

To Port Jackson, on the north west coast of Coromandel

The Pinnacles still into the clouds, we change our plans again, and decide to go exploring the north of the west coast. This part of the peninsula is accessible only by a long dirt road winding its way along the ocean. Well, that will add a little bit of fun to our journey.
While we progress on the hillsides yellowed by the strong summer sun, the tires of the car make the gravels squeal, and a familiar odor of dust fills up our nostrils, as a reminder of our passage in the Fleurieu peninsula in Australia 3 years ago. There’s even this little anxiety to come face to face with a large 4WD tumbling at all speed on a detour of the little narrow track.

Fortunately, we don’t come across a lot of cars. This part of the region looks to be deserted by tourists at this time of the year. Yet it’s probably the most beautiful road we ever took in New Zealand for now! Sun transforms ocean into liquid saphire, as far as our eyes can see, while black angus graze happilly. Tortuous trees streak the road with misshappen shadows. We feel free, happy, our face beaten by the wind that comes through the opened windows. The smell of dry grass and the thunderous sound of crickets that covers the noise of our engine, immerse us in an atmosphere of holiday in Provence.

We reach Port Jackson campground late in the afternoon, at the extreme north of the peninsula. Low sun rays illuminate the hills that surround the beautiful bay. We find ourselve a quiet location in front of the ocean, and grant us a moment of pure relaxation with the sound of the surf and the screams of seagulls.
And what if that’s the Life, the real one?

Tomorrow, we’ll have to drive back to Taupo for our 4 last working days, before heading south…
Meanwhile, we spend a good night by the light of the moon, confortably nestled in our car.

Good night friends !

Tintin & Riette

Tips :

Otama Beach Campground :

• Price : 12,5$/adult/night – 6$/kid (12 and under)/night (from 1st december to 1st march)
  Dogs 2$, Family (2 adult + 2-3 kids) 40$
• Price : 10$/adult/night – 5$/kid (12 and under)/night (from 2nd march to 30th november)
  Dogs 1$, Family (2 adult + 2-3 kids) 30$
• Dinkable water and power available
• Composting toilets available

• 400 Black Jack Road
  Whitianga 3592
• www.otamacamp.co.nz

DOC campgrounds along the road to Port Jackson :

3 campgrounds are available on the west coast dirt road to Port Jackson :

• Fantail Bay campsite, where most people stop, with access to the beach.
• Port Jackson campsite, more isolated and remote, is a famous fishing destination, with a beautiful view on the hills and coast line, and access to the beach.
• Another campsite is available at the top far point of Coromandel, must be book at Port Jackson office or by phone.
• Prices : 10$/adult/night 5$/kid (5 to 17)/night
• Cold showers, non drinkable water from tap, BBQ, toilets and rubbish bin available.

Luke’s Kitchen :

• The hippie, joyfull, and well animated restaurant where we stoped to have a couple of woodfire pizzas.
• 11am – 10pm
• 20 Blackjack road,
  Kuaotunu, Whitianga
• www.lukeskitchen.co.nz

Route 309

• Just before (or after, depends where you come from…) Whitianga airport, and to  Coromandel Airport.
• If you’re in a « self contained vehicule » stay overnight in Egan Park, peacefull little park on the banks of a river. If not, stop anyway, it worst it. Explore the river by foot, but be careful of slipy rocks.
• Kauri grove : 20mn return walk in a rain forest, that allow you to approach the big Kauri
• Waiau Falls : from the lookout, go down the stairs (5mn), to acess the pool made by the waterfall.

Square Kauri

• 15th biggest Kauri in New Zealand, estimated at 1200 years. The trunk has a shape of a square !
• In Tapu take the little and charming Tapu-Coroglen Road (with parts of gravel road), then drive until you see the sign indicating Square Kauri.
• 10mn walk

Waihi

• Mining city with a lot of walk in old tunnels, and suspension bridges. (a few km out of the city)
• An old mine tower is visible in town
• Next to the old tower, you can have a look over the pit, the big hole of the gold mine.
  But nothing comparable with the Super Pit de Kalgoorlie of course 🙂

La randonnée The Pinnacles

• One of the best trek in north island ! The best thing to do is climb up during afternoon, and spend the night up there. Then you can assist to the sunrise on the morning.
• 2,5h to 3h to the hut, another 40mn to the Pinnacles
• From Thames, take Kauaeranga Valley Road until the car park at the end. Follow track 10
• Hut prices : 15$/adult, 7,5$/kid (5-17  years)
• Campground price (Dancing Camp) next to the hut : 5$/adult, 2,5$/kid (5-17 years)